Rear Brake Super Soft After Wheel Removal & Brake Work

[durty3]

Rear Brake Super Soft After Wheel Removal & Brake Work

The bracket does look straight when I had it next to a piece of glass.

Runout looks good too.

https://vimeo.com/167662570

Also, the wheels never really left my sight, I have a friend who does the tire change!

This is the bracket on a glass table top:

I'm not sure what I could measure as it is machined in a way that prevents it from being "flat."

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Re: Rear Brake Super Soft After Wheel Removal & Brake Work

It does look good from here, but I'm talking about .002-.005 " A bike pedal really isn't best. Even if you can hold a thin pointy scribe, tiny drill bit, etc to the surface would be more accurate.

Seeing what you posted I don't think you'll find it messed up

(You don't have to video tape that, just rule it out)

BTW, you always had to run the front bolt in with at least a tool of some sort, didn't you?
It really should spin in just like the rear one, literally by hand. With ruling most everything out, (scratches head)
maybe?

 

[durty3]

Rear Brake Super Soft After Wheel Removal & Brake Work

Why didn't I think of that sooner!

When I put the front bolt in the caliper when it isn't on the bracket, I can do it with my finger. On the bracket, it's relatively hard to do unless I wiggle the caliper.

I did just check runout again with a screw sitting next to the rotor, looks good.

Anything else I should try before ordering a new caliper mounting bracket? I could probably get a new bolt from the Yam dealership tomorrow after work, but it seems like the bold is fine.

There's a used bracket for $30 on eBay right now.




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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Re: Rear Brake Super Soft After Wheel Removal & Brake Work

I'd get that front bolt-new...

And check with the seller to guarentee that its not bent..

 

[durty3]

Re: Rear Brake Super Soft After Wheel Removal & Brake Work

I'd get that front bolt-new...

Works for me, a cheap starting point! For good measure I'll see if the have a new rubber bushing to go with it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Re: Rear Brake Super Soft After Wheel Removal & Brake Work

Really odd, with all you've checked, been thru but that front bolt, ahhh...

I gather threads in the main bracket(front hole) appear ok.

 

[durty3]

Re: Rear Brake Super Soft After Wheel Removal & Brake Work

Really odd, with all you've checked, been thru but that front bolt, ahhh...

I gather threads in the main bracket(front hole) appear ok.

The threads in the caliper look fine, but no threads in the bracket, the bolt just floats in the bracket.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Re: Rear Brake Super Soft After Wheel Removal & Brake Work

Yep, my boo. Did you clean real good inside that boot, get out any grit, re-grease?

And that boot, shown ^^^, was nice and straight, not partially in either the bracket or caliper correct?

 

[durty3]

Re: Rear Brake Super Soft After Wheel Removal & Brake Work

Yep, my boo. Did you clean real good inside that boot, get out any grit, re-grease?

And that boot, shown ^^^, was nice and straight, not partially in either the bracket or caliper correct?

Correct! Remember, some of my earlier videos showed the problem when assembled without that boot!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Re: Rear Brake Super Soft After Wheel Removal & Brake Work

The more I think about it, there is no issue UNTIL you install that front bolt. There's no drag, pedal pumps up to normal, correct?

 

[durty3]

Re: Rear Brake Super Soft After Wheel Removal & Brake Work

The more I think about it, there is no issue UNTIL you install that front bolt. There's no drag, pedal pumps up to normal, correct?

Correct!

Which suggests 2 plausible options:

1) a bad bolt
2) the hole the bolt slides into is out if spec-- ergo a bent bracket

Any other angles?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Re: Rear Brake Super Soft After Wheel Removal & Brake Work

I don't think so but it has to be one or the other at this point.

And also, earlier in the thread, it was mentioned how much play (slight visible rocking) there was.

 

[trepetti]

I have a Hail Mary pass to try. If it works I will make up an explanation. [emoji12]. I recall the anti rattle clip that goes a over the pads is asymmetrical. If you can, flip it so the back is in the front etc. if the caliper is pivoting around the rear bolt instead of clamping, I am guessing g that the pads are not floating. It is a guess but I am trying to think outside of the box.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I have a Hail Mary pass to try. If it works I will make up an explanation. [emoji12]. I recall the anti rattle clip that goes a over the pads is asymmetrical. If you can, flip it so the back is in the front etc. if the caliper is pivoting around the rear bolt instead of clamping, I am guessing g that the pads are not floating. It is a guess but I am trying to think outside of the box.

I remember you had an issue and that idea may very well be correct...Spring #6









(From Partzilla admin)

 

[durty3]

I have a Hail Mary pass to try. If it works I will make up an explanation. [emoji12]. I recall the anti rattle clip that goes a over the pads is asymmetrical. If you can, flip it so the back is in the front etc. if the caliper is pivoting around the rear bolt instead of clamping, I am guessing g that the pads are not floating. It is a guess but I am trying to think outside of the box.

I think you mean part #8, the clip that the pads slide on?

Scott, you are saying #6, that's the rubber sleeve?

In any event, both are worth another look, but fairly certain they are oriented correctly.

Part #8 I did notice is asymmetrical. It has a small tab that holds the inboard pad in place, allowing only the outboard pad to slide in conjunction with the piston--or so I think.

Thanks and let me know if you guys think anything I just said is wrong!

 

[FinalImpact]

Round three - assemble it without the pads and MEASURE ROTOR TO PAD INNER STOP on both extremes - leading and trailing edge of caliper.
It will be difficult but maybe even just slide the pad in and verify the space is equal.

Then with your hand, very the caliper floats. Leave the rubber boots off for this if you want.

Verify the wheel position / adjusters are equal. If the wheel is tilted/angled it will cause all of this!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yes, Tom and I referred to part # 8, not 6. (friggin did it again!)

I know the fronts have an arrow pointing forward, I don't remember about the back thou..\


Also, the "rearish" anti rattle clip, its NOT numbered. Make sure that's in correctly too.

 

[durty3]

Round three - assemble it without the pads and MEASURE ROTOR TO PAD INNER STOP on both extremes - leading and trailing edge of caliper.
It will be difficult but maybe even just slide the pad in and verify the space is equal.

Then with your hand, very the caliper floats. Leave the rubber boots off for this if you want.

Verify the wheel position / adjusters are equal. If the wheel is tilted/angled it will cause all of this!

Holy cow!!!!!!! I am mind blown by this--a ha!

I think we have been looking in all of the wrong places. There is little reason to believe a bolt got bent during disassembly, the mounting bracket looks good, the rubber is only 11 years old.

Rear wheel alignment--that would throw everything off! And guess what, although I think I did it correctly, it was my first ever attempt.

Before I buy any parts or mess around with any other things, I want to realign that rear wheel. I watched YouTube and read articles about how to do it--I used a string from front to back.

Any tips or tricks on not messing up the alignment?!

 

[FinalImpact]

In the How To section is the String align method. I wrote it years ago. Not sure if the pictures are there or not. Works for me.

Are your adjusters near equal sticking out?

Also, please humor me and bolt it together without the pads. Verify rotor is parallel to caliper and that it slides by hand.

If the wheel alignment if off good bit, the rotor to caliper angles will be off and cause this. Still wanna know if the caliper floats/moves by hand once assembled w out pads.

 

[Motogiro]

Re: Rear Brake Super Soft After Wheel Removal & Brake Work

The threads in the caliper look fine, but no threads in the bracket, the bolt just floats in the bracket.

^^Where this bolt goes into the main brake bracket assembly....^^If the bolt does not pass through that hole and bottoms out in the hole it would c0ck the caliper in the main brake bracket when threaded in. Could this hole have crap in it? The end of that bolt should not bind in that hole and should either pass through it (if not a blind hole) or be able to pass to full depth of the hole. I don't see a washer or spacer in the diagram that would limit the thread travel of the bolt at the head. If there was a spacer/washer it would not allow the bolt to travel as deep. When the bolt is in the hole the problem occurs....