Speedo backlight works but no info

[FinalImpact]

^^ +10

The fact that it has a new fully charged battery and the RR is making heat could mean the shunt is intact. A couple things you'll want to see.

Off voltage: 12.85v to 13.00v after sitting 2 hrs.
Idle below 1300 rpm is load dependent.
Above 2500 rpm expect 14 to 14.5v

A fully charged battery will show a higher system voltage. While charging a depleted battery it is current that charges the battery so you will see the system voltage under 14v. This is all normal depending on battery health.

Another concern for you is leakage current that kills your battery. Here is a where a test lamp is very handy. Disconnect the Negative battery lead and place a test lamp between battery post and battery Neg lead. The light should not light or glow at all. If it does, there is a drain on your battery and it will leave you stranded w a dead battery.

Read more here about:charging systems and here about drain killing your battery.

 

[Motogiro]

^^ +10

The fact that it has a new fully charged battery and the RR is making heat could mean the shunt is intact.

Read more here about:charging systems and here about drain killing your battery.

Exacting why I'm stressing, check those r/r connectors...


Sent from Moto's Motorola

 

[FinalImpact]

The shunt is a resistor internal to the RR. Unfortunately just because it is warm/hot that doesn't mean it is ok. It has three jobs; rectify AC to DC, regulate DC voltage and pass excessive current to the shunt.

A shorted diode in the rectifier could criple its output, damage the stator, and make a bunch heat.

Follow that link and you find nuggets like this:


Core components of the FZ6 Charging system:

 

[austindv]

Bad news. I just installed the new RR unit and observed no change. The speedo did not come on at all except for maybe a little 20 or 30 second period while the bike was idling.

I'm trying not to let my frustration get the best of me but every time I feel like I've narrowed it down to the actual issue, I'm wrong. I guess just keep trying things until I find it?

Tomorrow I'll have time to look the whole thing over and use the voltmeter some to see what's going on. What do I need to be checking now?

 

[Motogiro]

,

Bad news. I just installed the new RR unit and observed no change. The speedo did not come on at all except for maybe a little 20 or 30 second period while the bike was idling.

I'm trying not to let my frustration get the best of me but every time I feel like I've narrowed it down to the actual issue, I'm wrong. I guess just keep trying things until I find it?

Tomorrow I'll have time to look the whole thing over and use the voltmeter some to see what's going on. What do I need to be checking now?

Keep your head up and you'll get it. There should be 3 wires for the stator and 2 heavier gage wires that go to the battery. The black wire (ground) may go to the frame. From how this scenario has developed I almost suspect an intermittent ground connection. Because your charging system seemed to be making power at times I feel like per the events you should recheck your grounds from the battery to the frame. Could you have disturbed a connection when you were working in the battery box area? R/R can put a larger amount of current out of the 2 heavier wires at that plug so those pins can over heat and be damaged. Does the new regulator heat up? If it does you may not be getting the charge to the battery and the rest of the bike. Confirm your connections. Don't get down! You'll get it. Just keep kickin n punchin!

Sent from Moto's Motorola

 

[FinalImpact]

JM2C but for starters, please follow this link and read the whole thing!

Battery and Charging System Trouble Shooting...

It explains how it works, what to look for, how to test each part, and then ask questions that come to mind.
Also, please Re-read this whole thread too and answer all of the questions. Armed with a meter and a test lamp you can answer 90% of our questions and with that we can isolate your problems. But we need facts!

Hang in there ok.

 

[austindv]

Alright today is the day. No more messing around. I'm going to make a checklist of info to give to y'all and I will run all of the tests today. I'm out of class at 12:20 and the rest of the afternoon will be dedicated to the bike.

I do want to clarify real quick that I am no longer having trouble with the battery. What I thought was a battery issue ended up being a starter issue. The battery holds charge just fine and the bike starts right up every time. The only problem now is the intermittent speedometer.

But again, once I get home I'm going to get after it. I'll get back to y'all once I'm done.

 

[austindv]

I tested the battery with the volt meter but that was all I could get to last night. I'll have to do more this weekend.

Volts key on - 12.6V
At idle - 14.5-14.6V
(I don't have the tach to see what rpm I'm at but...) while revving - 13.9V

 

[Motogiro]

I tested the battery with the volt meter but that was all I could get to last night. I'll have to do more this weekend.

Volts key on - 12.6V
At idle - 14.5-14.6V
(I don't have the tach to see what rpm I'm at but...) while revving - 13.9V

Normally the voltage at idle would be lower and when you rev the engine the voltage would be higher..... How did you determine the old R/R was bad? Is this a typo error? I could see 13.9 at Idle and 14.6 when revving..... What were the test results with the old R/R? Did you test the stator?

 

[FinalImpact]

Shown is Cold start, @ 1500 RPM, 14.4vdc


Thats w dual head lights. The fan is off on cold start.
As soon as it drops to 1150 rpm it is running off the battery loosing ground (from 13.8 to 13.3v).

You should set your metrer to AC volts and test the RR output like in the picture above. At 5000RPM tell us what you see. Hopefully less than a few volts.

I think your gauge issue is a separate fault unrelated to this. Def true if the gauge does not operate with the engine off.

 

[austindv]

Shown is Cold start, @ 1500 RPM, 14.4vdc


Thats w dual head lights. The fan is off on cold start.
As soon as it drops to 1150 rpm it is running off the battery loosing ground (from 13.8 to 13.3v).

You should set your metrer to AC volts and test the RR output like in the picture above. At 5000RPM tell us what you see. Hopefully less than a few volts.

I think your gauge issue is a separate fault unrelated to this. Def true if the gauge does not operate with the engine off.

Correct, the gauge does not operate with the engine off. I'll go check the RR unit as soon as I get home today.

 

[austindv]

Normally the voltage at idle would be lower and when you rev the engine the voltage would be higher..... How did you determine the old R/R was bad? Is this a typo error? I could see 13.9 at Idle and 14.6 when revving..... What were the test results with the old R/R? Did you test the stator?

No typo, that's what it was doing. I have not done any tests with the old RR. How do I test the stator?

Edit: Also, where are some ground connections that I can start checking?

 

[FinalImpact]

........ please follow this link and read the whole thing!

Battery and Charging System Trouble Shooting...

It explains how it works, what to look for, how to test each part........

This comes to mind....

 

[austindv]

Solved:

Finally traced the issue to my fuse box. No bad fuses BUT the wires underneath the fuse box had come loose and had to be pushed back into place with a small screwdriver. This fixed the issue with my instrument cluster and some issues I was having with the fuel pump. The bike is running great and I am one happy kid! Thank you everyone for the help.